Wednesday, January 20, 2010

What a ride x2

New Years Day we decided, along with what seemed like the rest of Chiang Mai, to go and visit a popular temple on a nearby mountain named Doi Suthep. After a very delicious lunch at a randomly chosen Taiwanese restaurant we were off to find a song tao (a small truck with a covered roof ,open at the back, and two benches along the sides). We waited around for a few minutes for there to be enough people to fill the song tao and tried to figure out the random system of organizing the song taos. It seemed to me like the drivers were arguing over who got to take the next load of people up to the top. We eventually all ended up in the same song tao and headed towards the Doi Suthep temple. The first part of the ride was mostly traffic jam and reasonably calm. However, at some point traveling up this steep winding mountain road, traffic filling the lane going up the mountain for as far as the eye could see, our song taw driver decided this was too slow. Off we go over the double yellow line as fast as a song taw can go towards oncoming traffic. Once traffic starts coming down the other side of the street we budge back into our own lane. After two or three of these maneuvers we end up stuck in our own lane of traffic. Traffic is not really moving but our driver refuses to remain at a standstill lurching us back and forward on a steep hill using the clutch instead of the brake. Eventually after a little more climbing we start to smell smoke. This became stronger and stronger and all the sudden we stopped. Thinking that this was coming from our vehicle we all jumped out the back of the song taw. After we got out we realized that the car in front of us had just caught on fire. We start to climb back into the song taw and with most passengers still adjusting to get into their seats our driver starts to pull around the on fire car. Marina hit her leg on a post trying to get into here seat and I made the jump for the moving target and was helped on by other passengers as I was still not on the vehicle. Wisely the three other passengers wave us on and walked the rest of the way to the top. A short drive later when we can see the temple is in sight the driver stops for something and everybody jumps out even though it was quite evident he was going to take us further. Once at the top we enjoyed the afternoon walking through the temple.





It was full of interesting activities and performances. We were a little nervous of getting back in another song taw to go back down but the driver we got was much more relaxed and were able to enjoy the ride. He did however completely fill the song taw with two people crammed into the front seat and twelve crammed into the back. My theory was they had different business strategies. The first driver was able to leave with less people but tried to make more runs up and down the mountain while the second filled it to the brim but drove at a reasonable pace. Next time I think we will look for the full song taw at least when they are packed full there is less room for shifting around and you can't really see what's going on.




The next day we decided to go with the local transportation method and we rented a bike (scooter) to see what we could find. We had plans of finding an national park that was not listed on any of our maps. On the way to breakfast I mentioned at the front desk that we wanted to rent a bike for the day, before we had finished breakfast the guy from the rental place was at our hotel with the bike and had us ready to go. All that was required was a copy of passport and a deposit, no drivers license though. After a few minutes of trying to get the bike to start we managed to get it to start and I went around the hotel parking lot a few times to get the hang of it. After that we headed off to the gas station to fill up as the bike was almost empty. After filling up the bike I went through the process of trying to start the bike again. Eventually after a few minutes of having no luck I push the bike out of the way and continue trying to get it started, when I realized the key is to have one hand on the brake while starting the bike and I just managed to get lucky the first time we were having problems. We are now on our way out of town and heading for our first stop of the day the Mae Sa waterfall. Once we get to the falls we need a pass to get in so we decide if we have time we will visit on the way back and instead stop at a coffee shop to get a brake from the bike and have a chance to look at the map. We were just going to sit on the benches out front but we were pursued by the restaurant owners and after being asked felt too bad to not order anything. So I order a coffee and Marina ordered a water. This was perhaps the worst coffee of our trip it was some sort of brewed coffee that I think tried to hide the fact that it was low quality by making it stronger. I add all the sugar and cream provided to this overly strong cup of coffee but eventually gave I up and poured the rest in the bushes. Back on the bike we get and head for the town of Samoeng. Along the way we pass some great views and we also notice that there are some large temperature differences when we get into some shady spots and the cool air feels nice during the hot part of the day.



We stopped for lunch in Samoeng and had some really good green papaya salad and some other treats. After lunch we carry on in the direction of the park we were looking for. The roads are getting skinner and less developed as we continue on. There is one steep section where Marina offered to walk as the bike was having a difficult time climbing, later on she tells me she was only joking. As we continue the road forks and heads in two directions with all signs in Thai. There was a map by the intersection and we tried to make the best guess of which way we should go. We make a somewhat random choice and decide it could only be a few more kilometers so we head off. We head through some very nice small villages similar to what we had seen at the first farm and we stop to take a break and have some fruit we brought in one of the temples. We go on a little further after this and decide that it's probably a good time to turn back if we want to get back before dark. On our way back we fill up with gas and head back for Chiang Mai. We discover on the way home that similar to at home once the sun goes down in the mountains it can get very cold fast especially when traveling on scooter in summer clothes. So we wind our way back through hills taking periodic breaks to try and warm up. Once we end up back on main road the temperature is much warmer and we head back for the hotel. This was a fun day and we enjoyed seeing some of the local countryside. Marina claims her bum got sore, I think mine must still be used to bicycle seat because I didn't notice. A fun mode of transportation for a day but I think I will stick with the pedal bike.

3 comments:

  1. looks like you had a blast on a scooter, Marina

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  2. What a ride indeed! I love the picture of Marina. Sounds like you two are having a great time with lots of adventures along the way. Can't wait to hear more.
    Love you.
    Tony, Julie, and Liam.

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